Often nicknamed the “Golden Gate” to Bourgogne, Chablis is a must-visit destination for oenophiles — connoisseurs, novices and everyone in-between. With the first vines in the region planted in 1AD, this is a place where viticulture and history are deeply entwined, and you can encounter everything from winery tours, tastings in the very heart of the vineyards or the soon-to-open Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne, an experience that will immerse visitors in the world of Chablis wines, from culture to terroir.
In Mimi Thorisson’s French Country Cooking, photographer and Condé Nast Traveller contributor Oddur Thorisson writes: “In the rest of the world it is common to ask for a glass of Chardonnay, or a bottle of Pinot (Noir). In France it is not. Here, people ask for a glass of Chablis, a bottle of Gevrey-Chambertin. A Chablis is always a Chardonnay, a Gevrey-Chambertin always a Pinot (Noir). Whereas elsewhere they talk about grapes, here we talk about regions.” To this day, Chablis remains one of the world’s most famous styles of Chardonnay; from Petit Chablis to Chablis and Chablis Premier and Grand Crus, international winemakers have attempted to imitate it for centuries.
Now, with a whole new range of experiences for visitors, there is no better time to plan your trip to Chablis. Here are some highlights:
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Where to Stay
Château de Béru
With breathtaking views of Bourgogne’s hills and meandering vineyards and just a handful of guestrooms featuring four-poster beds, a stay at this 400-year-old estate is an unequivocally charming step back in time. Focused on biodynamic wine production and using horses rather than tractors, the château’s wines have a superb purity. At its helm is Athénaïs de Béru, daughter of the late Count Eric de Béru and a member of the Femmes et Vins de Bourgogne association. Opt to stay in one of the guestrooms or rent out the whole property for up to eight people – this historic haven is perfect for a getaway à deux, as a family or with friends.
Website: chateaudeberu.com
Which Wineries to Visit
The Chablis vineyards are some of the oldest in the country, and the Chardonnay grape’s long history began in Bourgogne. Grown on both sides of the Serein – French for serene – River, the vines are rooted in soil rich in sediment from oyster fossils, resulting in a rare minerality that gives the wine its renowned crystalline tone.
Jean-Marc Brocard
Perched on a hill near the must-see St-Claire church, the breathtaking estate of Jean-Marc Brocard and his son Julien is worth the trip for its panoramic views, picturesque guesthouses and ancient cellars alone. The family domaine, established in 1973, covers almost 144 hectares in the heart of the Chablis winegrowing region – 66 of which are dedicated to organic production. Offering some of the best tailored activities in the region, you can create a personalised itinerary including everything from helicopter rides to private concerts and picnics in the seclusion of stunning vineyards.
Website: brocard.fr
Château Long-Depaquit
In the centre of the charming village of Chablis, a trip to this 65-hectare haven feels like stepping into a storybook. With a fragrant rose garden, ancient trees and expansive vineyards producing elegant, barrel-aged wines, you can explore the scenic grounds for hours and never be bored. The château is owned by Albert Bichot, whose family settled in Bourgogne in the 1300s. They have produced wine since the 1800s and in true village spirit the estate offers impromptu walk-in visits.
Website: albert-bichot.com
La Chablisienne
Run by a dynamic group of wine-growers, this cooperative represents over 20 per cent of the area’s vineyards and celebrates its 100th birthday this year. La Chablisienne’s wines are matured in either temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats, or 228-litre oak barrels, so this winery is a heaven for the travelling connoisseur. Awarded the 2019 Grand Prix d’Or in the Family Vineyard category, there are a wealth of activities to enjoy, from private tastings at a Bourguignon mâchon to the region’s only virtual-reality experience.
Website: chablisienne.com
Where to Eat
Au Fil du Zinc
Tucked away in a former 12th-century water mill, this restaurant in the heart of Chablis features classic Bourgogne architecture brought to life by local stonework and dark wooden beams. Based at the foot of the Serein River, its terrace faces the Grand Cru vineyards – a must for afternoon aperitifs in the summertime – and you can sit in tranquillity and sip wine from the vines surrounding the restaurant. Try chef Mathieu Sagardoytho’s carte du moment, a changing menu of inventive dishes, from white asparagus smoked with yellow wine to wild garlic and matured mimolette or Ferme de Clavisy lamb in artichoke and blood orange.
Website: aufilduzinc.fr
What to See
The Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne
An extension of the 12th-century Petit Pontigny cellar, the Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne is a multi-sensory experience, set to open in the heart of Chablis this May. A wide-ranging immersion in everything from heritage to culture and wine-making, the Cité will reveal the fascinating life of the region and offer workshops, tours and tasting courses.
Website: citeclimatsvins-bourgogne.com
From visiting stunning vineyards to uncovering the mysteries of some of the world’s oldest cellars and experiencing the town’s bucolic charm, an escape to Chablis is the perfect way to start the summer.
Visit Chablis and the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne, opening 17 May 2023.